The standard timepieces issued to officers during the First World War were Pocket Watches,very similar in function and appearance to the Pocket Watches such gentlemen would use in civilian life.

However, it very quickly became apparent that these were invariably inconvenient to use in conjunction with the heavy Greatcoats, Capes and other restricting military equipment being used in the trenches.

The Watch manufacturers of the day soon came up with what was then a radical and unconventional idea ...A gentleman's Watch that could be worn on the wrist!

It would seem obvious to us with the benefit of hindsight but this was really a new idea. Up to this period most ladies continued to carry small Fob Watches,only a small number of fashionable and well healed ladies had worn Wristwatches and the practice had become distinctly feminine, certainly no self respecting gent would be seen sporting a Wristwatch.

The First World War soon changed all that.

A Rolex First World war Hunting Cased Wristwatch.

Although issued with their official standard timepiece pocket Watch, many Officers quickly purchased these new Wristwatches for men. The British Officers at this period were, in the main drawn form the Aristocratic and upper classes, they would make their purchases from the top Jewellers of the day. As a result many of these early Wristwatches are of high quality and made in precious metals.

The arduous conditions of the trenches, the open cockpits of the early aircraft and changing face of warfare all prompted the quest for a robust waterproof wristwatch

Quite soon after the First World War, in the early twenties, wristwatches caught on and were used more and more by the civilian population. Consumer research shows that in 1930 sales of wristwatches overtook those of pocket watches.

In putting together any Vintage Wristwatch collection however large or small,these early examples must form an important part. They are not only a delight to own and use but are also superb examples of the first stages in the evolution of Wristwatch design.

The earliest type of wristwatch case was similar in construction to the Pocket Watches of the day.

The case front and the case back hinged open. Some of these had an additional secondary hinged case back to secure the case from dust and moisture.

At this point the challenge of producing a more waterproof case was taken up by the Dennison Watch Case Co. and then a case maker who was no doubt the most outstanding and innovative of this period. A talented gentleman by the name of Francis Baumgartner .

In fact his designs still impact on waterproof watch case designs to this day, quite simply because he designed the "Oyster" watch case. Hans Wilsdorf subsequently purchased what was one of the worlds most successful designs and marketed it equally successfully. However, before Hans Wilsdorf purchased the patent, other Swiss manufacturers used the "Hermetic" case design and some rare examples do come to light.

The deigns below are examples of his and the Dennison Watch Case Co.Design work and innovation leading up to his famous "Oyster" design in 1925.

Another interesting and important development in case design was the "Borgel".This involved the entire movement, glass and bezel screwing into the one piece case on a very deep thread.

The winding stem aperture had a long sleeve running up into the winder to try to prevent entrance of the elements. Again water would quickly seep into the case.

A Rolex "Hermetic" double cased wristwatch.

It was not until the mid 20s that a fully waterproof Wristwatch case was successfully produced.

Named the "Hermetic" it was in fact one watch case inside another. The inner case would hinge out allowing the hands to be set and the movement wound, the outer case having a screw-down bezel forming an hermetic seal thereby totally protecting the watch.

This worked well and would have been successful despite the inconvenience of having to unscrew the top every time the watch had to be wound and set.

It would have been successful but for one important event, Francis Baumgartner improved on his "Hermetic", using another patent purchased by Rolex, the watertight screw-down winding button. With this innovation he produced a case design that would provide total protection from water,and allow winding and setting without the inconvenience of a double case.

This event was of course the development of the Rolex Oyster. The quest for a truly practical, usable waterproof case was at an end.

Copyright © Anthony Green Antiques 1999- 2008